New jewelry designers will accelerate their progress by learning the terminology of different jewelry-making components. Whether shopping for jewelry closures with a jewelry findings vendor or reviewing jewelry design options with a potential customer, knowing the names of jewelry components will enhance your credibility in the jewelry marketplace.
What is a spring ring?
Spring rings make up a third category of basic jewelry closures after lobster claw clasps and toggles, described in separate articles. Circular in shape, these rings have a “tab” or “trigger” that connects to the inner “shaft”. The C-shaped outer tube holds the inner shaft and the spring that keeps tension on the shaft. When the “trigger” is in its normal, released position, the shaft is closed, resting in the opposite side of the outer tube. To open the spring ring, one pulls in the trigger, which pulls the shaft back into the outer tube. Spring rings may also have either open or closed rings to attach them to jewelry.
When is a spring ring used?
Jewelry designers have traditionally used spring rings from 4mm to 8mm diameter on fine chain necklaces, bracelets and anklets with a chain tag or a small closed ring attached to the opposite side of the jewelry piece. This type of clasp closes into the open hole at the end of the chain tag.
Spring rings measuring up to 20mm diameter now accommodate bolder jewelry designs.
Spring Ring Materials
As with other jewelry closures, spring rings come in a variety of materials, the most common of which are:
Gold: 18 karat, 14 karat, 12 karat in yellow gold, white gold, green gold, rose gold
Gold-Filled: base metal with karat gold mechanically and thermally bonded to visible and wear surfaces
Silver: sterling silver (.925 silver), including blackened silver
Brass, usually plated with gold, silver, bright copper, antique copper, antique brass, gunmetal or imitation rhodium
Spring rings are affordable jewelry closures for fine, lightweight jewelry pieces in sterling, plated metals, gold-filled or karat gold. For designers who like the way spring rings work, bolder, fancier spring rings can be used for larger pieces and for visual centerpieces.