To work effectively with friends, customers and suppliers, jewelry makers should learn the terminology of jewelry-making supplies. The right terminology will help define a need for the right jewelry closure when images are not available.
Jewelry toggles make up a second category of jewelry closures, along with lobster claw clasps, for handmade artisan jewelry, mass-market costume jewelry and fine jewelry. You will see toggle closures on jewelry pieces from Tiffany and David Yurman down to special Mothers Day gifts that only a mother would wear. Toggle clasps can fasten jewelry and enhance jewelry appearance. Many jewelry-makers use toggles as closures for their necklaces, bracelets, and anklets.
What is a jewelry toggle? (Jewellery toggle for you Brits!)
A jewelry toggle is a set of two pieces: a jewelry loop and a jewelry stick. The jewelry loop is attached to one end of your jewelry chain, strung beads, seed bead weave, wire crochet, etc. The jewelry stick is attached to the other end. To hold the jewelry together around the neck, wrist or ankle, one inserts the jewelry stick through the jewelry loop; the stick then rests against the jewelry loop by gravity to hold the jewelry together. If the jewelry piece does not have some slack, then the size is most likely too tight for long lasting jewelry.
Mechanics of Toggles
The shortest distance from your anchor point (often a ring soldered on or cast midway a metal toggle stick) to the end of the stick must be longer than the widest opening of your toggle loop. Otherwise, the toggle stick will easily slip through the loop and the jewelry will drop off. The toggle loop must be big enough to accommodate the smallest beads on the end attached to the toggle stick. The stick must be pulled through the loop before it can be turned to rest against the toggle loop. For that reason, many designers who use toggles will graduate end beads down in size. A toggle that is heavy with respect to the beads and other components will help a bracelet to hang comfortably, with the toggle loop underneath the wrist. Lighter weight toggles will let a bracelet rotate around the wrist as gravity drags on the heaviest parts of the bracelet.
Your “stick” may be as simple as a button with a shank used with a loop of seed beads on bead wire. Your loop may be quite fancy, with “expandable” toggles of several rings attached together. The rings on both the toggle loop and toggle stick should be firmly attached. Cheaply manufactured toggles will often have rings that will twist off or deform or sticks that have no rigidity and bend under tension.
When using chain, toggles will usually be fastened with open jump rings, split rings or link locks. If one wishes to have soldered connections, then chain end caps will be used. Jewelry designers will usually fasten toggles to bead wire projects using crimps. The wire is strung through the toggle or stick loop, then doubled through the crimp before it is flattened into place. Bead wire projects and fiber projects such as knotted silk jewelry pieces will often use clam shells or bead tips to make the transition from the knotted fiber to the toggle. Inexpensive leather or fiber pieces may be knotted directly onto the toggle pieces with overhand knots.
Most toggles used in the United States will be made of cast or assembled metal alloys. High end jewelry will use Platinum, Gold, Palladium and Sterling Silver toggles. One will often see Stainless Steel, Surgical Steel and Titanium for edgy, contemporary jewelry. Middle-market products will most likely use Gold-filled toggles and Sterling Silver toggles. Plated toggles will feature brass, surgical steel or copper with plates of gold, silver. copper, gunmetal/”blackened nickel”, imitation rhodium, imitation silver and imitation gold. Gold, silver, copper and brass may be oxidized or antiqued for the look of aged jewelry components. Solid copper toggles have their enthusiasts for the alleged medical benefits. Raw brass and lacquered brass toggles have their fans, too. One may also find toggle sets of wood or stone. Some toggles are decorated with crystals, cubic zirconia or gemstones. Pot metal toggles will appear on only the very cheapest of jewelry.
Fashionistas usually regard jewelry toggles as more fashionable than lobster claw clasps. However, toggle clasps come with a bit more risk than lobster claw clasps. Even well-sized jewelry using toggles may fall off the body in the wrong situation. These “wrong situations” may be as simple as resting the wrist on a desktop or otherwise relaxing the tension on the piece.
Fancy toggles will often be used at the front of a necklace as a visual centerpiece — especially fancy shaped toggles or toggles with addition decorations.
Jewelry toggles come in a wide array of designs: plain round toggles, oval toggles, square toggles, diamond toggles, heart-shaped toggles, floral toggles, stirrup toggles, etc. Jewelry aesthetics and individual taste will usually define the possible toggles to match a jewelry piece. Fortunately, toggles are available in a wide range of materials, shapes and prices.